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The ‘Million Dollar Cowboy Bar’ Welcome Sign in Jackson, Wyoming
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Horses pull a vintage stagecoach in Jackson, Wyoming
Unless you are searching for wild mustangs in Idaho’s Owyhee Mountains or somewhere in Wyoming or Montana, it’s not hard to find horses to photograph. And horses are much easier to photograph than wild animals in wilderness areas. Even if you are photographing horses in action, their graceful, predictable movements make them great photographic subjects. As with any action photography, it’s best to start with a slightly higher ISO, so you can select a faster shutter speed and minimize blurry movement in your images. I tend to start around ISO800 or slightly higher. Even though digital cameras have come a long way to minimize noise and grain at higher ISOs, I still prefer lower ISOs when lighting conditions allow.
The ‘Million Dollar Cowboy Bar’ Welcome Sign in Jackson, Wyoming
Aperture is one of the harder concepts to learn when you are taking fully manual photographs. This is because the numbering system is counter-intuitive. The smaller the aperture setting (f4.5 or f5.6, for example), the wider the opening and the shallower the depth of field. So an aperture setting of f5.6 will expose the frame more quickly but blur out the background and foreground, because the aperture is wide open. A larger number, such as f22, is a much smaller opening, exposing less light but expanding the depth of field. For large animals like horses, a mid-range aperture works best to focus on the entire animal. That is, unless you are using a telephoto lens and trying to blur out features except for, say, the horse’s eye or mane or ears. In that case, a wide open aperture (smaller f-stop) will narrow the focal field and give you a nice blurring effect for macro shots.
Two horses pull a carriage at winter in Eastern Oregon, near Baker City
Shutter speed is probably the easiest setting to quickly adjust on the go, especially if you know what depth of field you want and have a general range of ISO you want to shoot. I prefer to set my ISO, select an initial aperture, and then adjust my shutter speed to light conditions. Depending on your light, you may be able to adjust for a fast shutter speed, which is ideal for horses in motion. If your horse subjects are grazing in a field, having a faster shutter speed is less important. But with added movement, you’ll want to make sure to have a fast enough shutter speed to minimize movement and blur.
Creating Motion and Movement in Your Horse Shots
For some horse action shots, though, you may want to create a blurred background effect by tracking the horse with your camera and setting a slower shutter speed/aperture/ISO combination. When done right, if you track your subject well, the horse will be in focus but the background will be blurred, giving a sense of movement and motion behind the horse. Regardless of the effect I am shooting for, I try to balance a mid-range ISO setting with a medium aperture and the fastest shutter speed I can manage with the other two settings.
An antique leather saddle on display in Jackson, Wyoming
