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      • Horses & Tack
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A view of a glass sculpture at the Grand Mayan's luxury club on the beach near Playa del Carmen, Mexico, in the Yucatan Peninsula
Written by Mod Fam on July 8, 2019

Coba Ruins: Cobá and the Grand Mayan

Hiking . Mexico . Outdoor Recreation . Travel . Worldwide Travel
Coba Ruins: Cobá and the Grand MayanA mother and her two daughters ride in a bicycle rickshaw at the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.  The complex at Cobá includes numerous pyramid structures, ball courts, and a ceremonial complex.
(I’m honestly not sure why she’s gnawing on her doll’s head)
Tulum-Xel-Há, the perfect combination of culture, sea and sun.  Tulum, Riviera Maya.

4 Perfect Days in Mexico’s Riviera Maya and the Yucatán Peninsula (Coba Ruins)

You are viewing Day 3 of our 4-Day Itinerary for the Riviera Maya, “Coba ruins.” Click on any of the days in the list below to view the post for other days. You can also click here to view our full, printable 4-Day itinerary with highlights from each day to help you plan your own adventure along the Riviera Maya.

Coba Ruins: Cobá and the Grand MayanA mother and her two young daughters ride in a bicycle-powered rickshaw in the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.  The complex at Cobá includes numerous pyramid structures, ball courts, and a ceremonial complex. The site contains several groups of excavated ruins, including the Grupo Nohoch Mul and the Grupo Macanxoc.
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Coba Ruins & Pool Day – THIS POST

  • Bicycle through the Mayan complex of Cobá
  • Hike to the top of a dizzying pyramid
  • Head back to the Mayan Palace to sip piña coladas at the resort’s luxury club

Ek’ Balam and Chichén Itzá

Coba Ruins: Cobá and the Grand MayanA close-up photo of the entrance sign at at the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.  The complex at Cobá includes numerous pyramid structures, ball courts, and a ceremonial complex. The site contains several groups of excavated ruins, including the Grupo Nohoch Mul and the Grupo Macanxoc.
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Coba Ruins & the Grand Mayan

Coba Ruins: Cobá and the Grand MayanA young girl sits on the stone steps of a Mesoamerican ball court in the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.  The complex at Cobá includes numerous pyramid structures, ball courts, and a ceremonial complex. The site contains several groups of excavated ruins, including the Grupo Nohoch Mul and the Grupo Macanxoc.

One of the hardest decisions for the history buff is exactly which sites to visit on a short trip to the Yucatán, because you could easily spend weeks exploring each of the excavated (and un-excavated) sites dotting the peninsula. Add to that the various cities and villages from Mérida to Valladolid and Tulum, and you’d really need several months to do it justice. (And we haven’t even mentioned the beaches and cenotes around the limestone shelf that makes up the peninsula).

A four- or five-day itinerary should include visits to Tulum and Chichén Itzá, by far the most popular and most heavily visited sites. Our next two favorites toward the Eastern coast, though, are Ek’ Balam and Cobá, the subject of our posts today and tomorrow.

As you can see on the satellite map below, there are several routes to Cobá from The Grand Mayan and Playa del Carmen to the South. The fastest route takes you South through Tulum and then back Northwest to the site. Depending on your plans and time along the Mayan Riviera, you may want to see both Tulum and Cobá in one day. There are pros and cons for seeing Tulum first and vice-versa. On the one hand, getting to Tulum when it opens is always the best way to see that site, but then you’ll be visiting Cobá later, in the heat of the day. The climb to the top of the main pyramid is hard enough in the cooler morning; we made the climb in the afternoon heat and paid the price in sweat and discomfort! On the other hand, if you drive to Cobá to start the day in the cooler temperatures there, by the time you get back to Tulum, it will likely be much more crowded and less enjoyable. So, our recommendation is to visit Cobá on another day entirely, even though you may have to drive back and forth a little more than you would if you combine the sites into a single day.

A google satellite image of the Yucatán Peninsula, including Cancún, Playa del Carmen, Tulum, Cobá, Ek Balam, Mérida, Valladolid, and Chichén Itzá. The route from The Grand Mayan and the Mayan Palace to the Mayan ruins at Cobá is highlighted.
Tulum-Xel-Há, the perfect combination of culture, sea and sun.  Tulum, Riviera Maya.

The Best Way to See Coba Ruins: Travel by Bike

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The dirt and gravel paths throughout the complex at Cobá are wide, broad, and flat, making them perfect for the site’s many rickshaws and bicycles available to rent for a nominal fee. Sections of the broad walkways are actually part of a much longer system of ancient roads built by the Mayas of Yucatán to connect various sites to Cobá, a Yucatecan version of the Roman roads.

Coba Ruins: Cobá and the Grand MayanA young girl selects a bicycle to ride through the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.  The complex at Cobá includes numerous pyramid structures, ball courts, and a ceremonial complex. The site contains several groups of excavated ruins, including the Grupo Nohoch Mul and the Grupo Macanxoc.

Here, as in Tulum and Chichén Itzá, you will be faced with the inevitable questions of visiting historical ruins in Yucatán: should you hire a local guide, buy a self-guided tour book, or just wing it, and hope to glean something valuable from just being there, soaking up the views of ancient stone ruins and the ball court and the pyramid towering over the lush jungle below? As we mentioned yesterday, hiring a local guide is a worthwhile expense and a small way to give back to the local Maya communities that live and breathe these spaces as they have for thousands of years. Even if you wander around on your own afterward, it is well worth talking with a guide and hearing Maya perspectives on the history and significance of Cobá.

Coba Ruins: Cobá and the Grand MayanA view of the stone ring of a Mesoamerican ball court in the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.  The complex at Cobá includes numerous pyramid structures, ball courts, and a ceremonial complex. The site contains several groups of excavated ruins, including the Grupo Nohoch Mul and the Grupo Macanxoc.
Coba Ruins: Cobá and the Grand MayanAnother view of the opposing stone ring of a Mesoamerican ball court in the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.  The complex at Cobá includes numerous pyramid structures, ball courts, and a ceremonial complex. The site contains several groups of excavated ruins, including the Grupo Nohoch Mul and the Grupo Macanxoc.
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We biked and rode through Cobá, stopping at various structures and excavated sites, like the relatively small ball court that has a small earthen strip between two steep stone embankments leading to two carved stone rings on either side of the court. Although the ball court in Chichén Itzá is much larger (and the largest in all of Mesoamerica or “Middle America”), the court at Cobá is striking because of its scale, design, and setting. The angled sides and embedded rings make this a unique and significant example of the ancient ball games.

Coba Ruins: Cobá and the Grand MayanA woman stands in the jungle at the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.  The complex at Cobá includes numerous pyramid structures, ball courts, and a ceremonial complex. The site contains several groups of excavated ruins, including the Grupo Nohoch Mul and the Grupo Macanxoc.
Michelle, after winning a ball game against me; no sacrifices were made to commemorate her victory and my loss
Coba Ruins: Cobá and the Grand MayanReconstructed stone steps lead up an ancient Mesoamerican pyramid at the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.  The complex at Cobá includes numerous pyramid structures, ball courts, and a ceremonial complex. The site contains several groups of excavated ruins, including the Grupo Nohoch Mul and the Grupo Macanxoc.

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Coba Ruins: Climb a Pyramid in Yucatán

There was a time when you could scale Kukulkán, the massive pyramid at Chichén Itzá; injuries from tourists falling down the incredibly steep steps have put an end to that (more on that tomorrow). So if you want to climb high above the jungle canopy, opt for Cobá or other sites further North.

A long rope down the center of the staircase offers a little support for your climb, but be careful; these steps are steep. And by steep, I mean about the width of an adult shoe – sideways. The steep pitch of the stone staircase creates an almost vertical ascent at more than a 45-degree angle up. One misstep and you could tumble all the way down the enormous structure.

A view of the jungle from atop the main pyramid at the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.  The complex at Cobá includes numerous pyramid structures, ball courts, and a ceremonial complex. The site contains several groups of excavated ruins, including the Grupo Nohoch Mul and the Grupo Macanxoc.
Coba Ruins: Cobá and the Grand MayanA mother and her daughter stand on steep stone steps leading up the largest ancient Mesoamerican pyramid at the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.  The complex at Cobá includes numerous pyramid structures, ball courts, and a ceremonial complex. The site contains several groups of excavated ruins, including the Grupo Nohoch Mul and the Grupo Macanxoc.
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I don’t think I’ve ever held Renn more tightly than I did today. Michelle climbed up the stairs with her before handing her off to me about halfway up. At the top, there are no railings or other barriers on any of the sides of the platform, and only the front staircase has been carefully re-assembled from the broken-down pieces that had long since been reclaimed by the jungle. Not only did I have to warn Nyah to stop jumping around up there; I kept Renn in a Vulcan death grip the entire time.

A mother, father, and daughter stand atop the largest ancient Mesoamerican pyramid at the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.  The jungle is visible behind them, and the girl looks up past the camera at the top of the pyramid.  The complex at Cobá includes numerous pyramid structures, ball courts, and a ceremonial complex. The site contains several groups of excavated ruins, including the Grupo Nohoch Mul and the Grupo Macanxoc.

There really is nothing as awe-inspiring as standing atop an ancient ceremonial pyramid like this, looking out over the jungle as far as you can see, a sea of dark green under the afternoon rain clouds gathering before a storm. And then, just when you think the heat and humidity are unbearable, the clouds give up the rain, cooling the air in yet another cycle of rain, seepage through the limestone shelf to the freshwater rivers below the surface, evaporation, rising humidity, and torrential rain. We made it back down the pyramid and back through the complex before today’s rains, but I’m pretty sure we felt the full brunt of the sun standing atop the pyramid.

Coba Ruins: Cobá and the Grand MayanA long rope descends steep stone steps on the largest ancient Mesoamerican pyramid at the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.  The complex at Cobá includes numerous pyramid structures, ball courts, and a ceremonial complex. The site contains several groups of excavated ruins, including the Grupo Nohoch Mul and the Grupo Macanxoc.
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If you make your way up the pyramid, be careful and take the ascent and descent slowly. If you have children with you, be doubly careful. It’s worth sharing the experience of Coba ruins with little ones, but just be aware of the risks and don’t attempt something that you – and they – are not comfortable doing.

Coba Ruins: Cobá and the Grand MayanA mother and her two young daughters stand in front of steep stone steps on the largest ancient Mesoamerican pyramid at the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.
A young girl sits on a log in the jungle and drinks water from her Camelbak water bottle after climbing the largest ancient Mesoamerican pyramid at the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.

Having made it up and down the pyramid successfully, the girls were ready for a cool drink and some shade. Luckily for all of us, a small store at the base of the pyramid sells a variety of refreshments. We drank some water and (*a special request, rarely granted) a can of soda before the girls hopped back in the rickshaw and Nyah passed off her small mountain bike to one of her friends who hadn’t gotten a chance to bike yet. Perhaps a bit delusional from all the sun and heat exposure, the girls feigned shock and fear while riding along in the cart at no more than 5 mph through the Coba ruins. Evidently, the water and Sprite had the desired effect; they recovered fully from the sweltering mid-day heat in time to head back to the beach and pools

Coba Ruins: Cobá and the Grand MayanTwo young girls and their mother ride in a bicycle-powered rickshaw after climbing the largest ancient Mesoamerican pyramid at the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico. The girls' mouths are agape as they pretend to be scared of the fast-moving cart.
Coba Ruins: Cobá and the Grand MayanTwo young girls ride in a bicycle-powered rickshaw after climbing the largest ancient Mesoamerican pyramid at the Pre-Colombian Mayan ruins at Cobá, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico. The girls' mouths are agape as they pretend to be scared of the fast-moving cart.
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By now, you’re probably starting to see a pattern in how we like to explore: start early with an historical tour, visit the ruins, or otherwise do something active, and then follow that up with a relaxing afternoon and evening. With younger (young-ish?) kids, this feels like a good pace, and we can spend time doing what we all enjoy without overdoing it or going so fast and furious that we’re all worn out after our vacation!

A view of the private, luxury club at the Grand Mayan and Mayan Palace, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico. An umbrella covers cushioned beach chairs near private swimming pools and large wooden beams that provide some privacy for visitors at the club.
A young girl and mother sit on a white cushioned beach chair next to a swimming pool at the Grand Mayan private club, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.

So what is our answer to ghastly heat and humidity out in the jungle? Cool water and piña coladas, of course! And judging by Renn’s yawn, a short nap under a few pool towels is also in order.

We are huge fans of the Grand Mayan and Mayan Palace, for reasons we mentioned our first day here. Two more new reasons to love the resort are the luxury clubs at either end of the property facing the beach. These newly-designed areas feature cozy pools that wrap around and between semi-private seating areas with privacy screens, umbrellas, and various levels of planters and other visual dividers. There are larger, open swimming areas and smaller, more private enclaves if you’re wanting to relax away from the crowds at the much larger (and much busier) main pools.

A young girl and her father stand at the far end of a luxury pool at the Grand Mayan private club, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.
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And just for the record, Renn loved flying up in the air over the pool. No toddlers were hurt (physically or emotionally) in the making of this photo. In fact, she keeps asking if we can just stay here forever. If only we could!

A young girl flies up in the air, extending her arms out after her father launches her up into the air over his head in a swimming pool at the Grand Mayan private club, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico.
Xel-Há Park a great place for Snorkel, all you can eat & drink. A wonder of the world at Tulum, Riviera Maya.

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Previously: The Best Beach in Tulum

Up Next: Ek Balam and Chichén Itzá

Tags: 4-Day Itinerary, Adventure, beaches, Cancun, Chichén Itzá, Children, Cobá, Family, Global, Global Travel, Grand Mayan, International, Mayan Palace, Mexico, Modern Family, Playa Paraíso, Quintana Roo, Recommended Itinerary, Riviera Maya, Travel, Travel Guide, Traveling, Tulum, Worldwide Travel, Yucatán Peninsula
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